DROPPING ACID -Harvest 2015
Whereas one of the themes of the 2014 harvest was the presence of drosophilia in many of the vineyards of France, in 2015 the concern is low acidity (in particular malic) in almost every region. A vigneron in the Maconnais told me on August 21 that if he based his picking date solely on acidity levels, he would have already started picking, but based on sugars, the grapes were still at least 2 weeks from being ripe. He thought he might be obliged to acidify for the first time in his viticultural career.
The first remark from nearly every vigneron with whom I speak is that the grapes are healthy and, because of little rain over the summer, concentrated – a promising harvest. An article in Figaro three days ago announced the expectation of “un grand millésime 2015”. But when I mention, “I’ve heard the acidities are a bit low”, every vigneron admits that is a concern. As one vigneron described it, ‘the year of every danger…but the grapes are healthy.’
July was very hot throughout France and apparently the malic acidity was “burned off”. It was a dry summer which means that the skins are rather thick and there is not much juice in the grapes. Most potassium in grapes is located in the skins and stems. The level of tartaric acid this year is fairly high, but when it combines with potassium and becomes potassium bitartrate it will precipitate out (tartrate crystals). Therefore, wineries will need to be very careful in handling the grapes with light pressing to avoid introducing too much potassium into the must and losing more acidity. This will be especially tricky for the reds where the potassium will be extracted during maceration and alcoholic fermentation.
In these first days of September, the sugars are relatively high and the grapes are healthy, but phenolic ripeness has not necessarily arrived. The danger is wines that are rich, but rather flat due to lack of acidity and phenolic ripeness. At this point, a little rain could be helpful to increase the amount of juice in the grapes (better ratio juice to skin) and cool nights to maintain the already low levels of malic.
The night of September 1, just a few days before many wineries were to begin harvesting there, a hailstorm ripped through Chablis, mostly in the Premier and Grand Cru sections. I spoke to Thomas Pico the morning of September 2 and he described it as “a massacre”. He sent me photos of vineyards in which there was not a leaf left on the vines. Since, I have heard that between 10-20% of the vineyards were hit.
The Jura and Alsace have begun harvesting, mostly precipated by concerns of low acidity.
In Champagne, harvest has started in the Aube and will start next week in the north. Low acidities are less of a concern in areas with lots of chalk (ie Côtes des Blancs/Montgueux) which gives freshness and minerality. However, in the Montagne de Reims, with more clay soils, one vigneron told me that the grapes, while fairly rich in sugar, seem aromatically “flat” – he said smelling and tasting the grapes there is hardly any flavor. He hopes with the changing of the moon and a little more ripeness the flavor profile will change.
Wineries in Touraine will probably begin harvesting in the next week or so, if the temperatures at night remain cool enough to preserve the remaining acidity. If the weather gets hot, they may have to advance the harvest.
In Burgundy, harvest will be underway this weekend, about 2 weeks in advance of a “normal” year.
The south (Rhône, Provence, Languedoc and Roussillon) seems to be in a similar position. Some have started harvesting the whites, but are waiting for better maturity on the reds.
Harvest of the whites has started in Bordeaux and for the reds comparisons are being made with other hot, early picked vintages like2010, 2009, and 2005. It will, no doubt, be another “great vintage” in Bordeaux.
The first remark from nearly every vigneron with whom I speak is that the grapes are healthy and, because of little rain over the summer, concentrated – a promising harvest. An article in Figaro three days ago announced the expectation of “un grand millésime 2015”. But when I mention, “I’ve heard the acidities are a bit low”, every vigneron admits that is a concern. As one vigneron described it, ‘the year of every danger…but the grapes are healthy.’
July was very hot throughout France and apparently the malic acidity was “burned off”. It was a dry summer which means that the skins are rather thick and there is not much juice in the grapes. Most potassium in grapes is located in the skins and stems. The level of tartaric acid this year is fairly high, but when it combines with potassium and becomes potassium bitartrate it will precipitate out (tartrate crystals). Therefore, wineries will need to be very careful in handling the grapes with light pressing to avoid introducing too much potassium into the must and losing more acidity. This will be especially tricky for the reds where the potassium will be extracted during maceration and alcoholic fermentation.
In these first days of September, the sugars are relatively high and the grapes are healthy, but phenolic ripeness has not necessarily arrived. The danger is wines that are rich, but rather flat due to lack of acidity and phenolic ripeness. At this point, a little rain could be helpful to increase the amount of juice in the grapes (better ratio juice to skin) and cool nights to maintain the already low levels of malic.
The night of September 1, just a few days before many wineries were to begin harvesting there, a hailstorm ripped through Chablis, mostly in the Premier and Grand Cru sections. I spoke to Thomas Pico the morning of September 2 and he described it as “a massacre”. He sent me photos of vineyards in which there was not a leaf left on the vines. Since, I have heard that between 10-20% of the vineyards were hit.
The Jura and Alsace have begun harvesting, mostly precipated by concerns of low acidity.
In Champagne, harvest has started in the Aube and will start next week in the north. Low acidities are less of a concern in areas with lots of chalk (ie Côtes des Blancs/Montgueux) which gives freshness and minerality. However, in the Montagne de Reims, with more clay soils, one vigneron told me that the grapes, while fairly rich in sugar, seem aromatically “flat” – he said smelling and tasting the grapes there is hardly any flavor. He hopes with the changing of the moon and a little more ripeness the flavor profile will change.
Wineries in Touraine will probably begin harvesting in the next week or so, if the temperatures at night remain cool enough to preserve the remaining acidity. If the weather gets hot, they may have to advance the harvest.
In Burgundy, harvest will be underway this weekend, about 2 weeks in advance of a “normal” year.
The south (Rhône, Provence, Languedoc and Roussillon) seems to be in a similar position. Some have started harvesting the whites, but are waiting for better maturity on the reds.
Harvest of the whites has started in Bordeaux and for the reds comparisons are being made with other hot, early picked vintages like2010, 2009, and 2005. It will, no doubt, be another “great vintage” in Bordeaux.
RSS Feed